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Thursday 14 July 2011

Time is a human construct...

...and we should have made more of it!
The odd thing about blogging is that when you're busy doing interesting things you have no time to blog, and when you've got the time to blog you haven't done anything interesting to blog about, hey-ho.
Anyway of recent times I have been spending a lot of time working and a bit of time climbing. I'll not dwell on the working too much, or indeed at all. However on the climbing front since returning from Font my efforts have been directed in a sporting direction. There have been a couple of high end efforts (for me at least) which have yet to end in success, but I remain hopeful. There's also been pastures new visited, well pasture actually. Yew Cogar was a crag that on paper never massively appealed, it was down a steep hill meaning a hellish walk-out and seemed to contain longish (from my bouldery perspective) routes. However I finaly succumbed to pressure from the Stallion and ventured down, and it was ace. The hill wasn't that steep, the routes weren't that long and the rock was luuuurverly.
Thus far my only success there has been Justin Time (7c) but I'll be heading back for some of the harder routes and Cruisin' For A Bruisin' which I want to save for a bit later in the season and give myself a decent chance of the on-sight/flash.
I've also revisited Troller's Gill and made a pretty quick redpoint of The Tinderbox:

This was pleasing as after Andy did the first ascent I tried to repeat it and found it a very stiff challenge. The crux felt very hard and even the supposedly easier section just after was a struggle. However this time the crux felt hard but pretty steady and the rest of the climbing was not in doubt, it seems as though my sport climbing is coming on.
I've also visited Kilnsey and got back on Metal Mickey. I first tried this eighteen months or so ago and it felt incredibly bouldery with every move feeling long and hard. So for my first session I was expecting to be making step-by-step progress so was quite pleased to have a quick go reminding myself of the moves and then on the second time on the rope climbed steadily up to the crux. My second session on this was just one attempt long without a warm-up and again the start felt steady. The crux moves still feel hard but I'm thinking this is probably game on.

Hopefully more to report soon...

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