Monday was spent at Troller's Gill with the guru, we had both over-extended our credit limit at the Banco De Famile to get out and the weather was supposed to close in big time by early afternoon so the pressure was on to get some quick results for our foolhardy gambles with the tolerances of our wives.
Things got off to a steady start for both of us on our respective targets for the day with both making good progress with our first couple of redpoints. My third attempt, with the weather turning for the worse, saw me get to the top of my project to give a new route. In keeping with the canine theme of the place I've gone for Moddey Dhoo as a name and the grade of 8a+. Which means that's all the rock eights ticked for me and, as a Brucey-bonus, a first ascent of an eight at all three events (trad, boulder and sport). Which I'm very pleased with, and that in itself would have been a very good day out however there was still the small matter of the guru's project. After my success he went for his fifth redpoint of the day, fell from the very last hard move, and tweaked his back. Disaster. And the rain continued to fall and now there was run-off at the top of the crag. And this is a project where he's said that if it doesn't go in the first couple of redpoints of the day he's unlikely to do it as he'll be powered out.
So a rest for five minutes, a quick stretch out and, with run-off pouring onto the top holds of the route and a strained back he sets out on the SIXTH redpoint of the day after a few encouraging words from me. And he totally destroys the route, he crushes it so completely. I'm impressed. Giving us Velveteen Rabbit (8b). Two new routes, a great day.
We walk back to our vehicles getting totally soaked and my van now stinks of wet dog. I don't care, I'm still smiling two days later. Climbing is the best thing in the world.
Moddey Dhoo (8a+) First Ascent:
Moddey Dhoo from nik jennings on Vimeo